Hoi An, and the journey there

Hoi An in so many words - an Epcot dream, a movie set, a most definite Unesco prize, a rustic architectural beauty preserved (maybe too preserved), and painted in flood washed yellows, oranges, and browns. The quaint city is decorated by hanging trees and lanterns, bright flowers, bird cages, art galleries, tailor shops, boutique coffee, fair trade, and fine dining restaurants. Thankfully, sharing in the streets and daily life are the locals and their produce market along the riverbend. Otherwise, the culture is only really otherwise felt in the tailor shops that most tourist spend much of their time. Hoi An is the tailor capital of Vietnam, and it is very clear by the hundreds of exact same tailor stores that line the streets. Pick up the latest fashion mag, chose a design, and within a day they will custom make your chosen outfit. I'm not sure what I enjoyed more, picking out an outfit for myself or watching Clay design and figure out his. My perfectionist and flirt made these ladies day (the white faces blushing with smiles) when he walked in their store, even when demanding a 10th change/redo/tweak....when all I got was attitude!

We stayed in Hoi An for a week that flew by with our custom tailoring, bike riding to the beach, and many meals with Stephan and Susana. And, that brings me to Stephan and Susana (S&S). Great friends we met in Paradise Beach (a small all inclusive guest house located in the middle of nowhere between Nha Trang and Hoi An) and traveled with to Quay Non, a night train we will never forget, and finally Hoi An before they headed back to Singapore. 

Not sure how to tell these great stories in a nut (maybe coconut) shell because they were too perfect for our first months in Asia. 

Leaving Paradise Beach with S&S the instructions were to have the taxi drop us off at the end of the long road and hold up a sign to catch the bus to Quay Non. It sounded a bit odd, but we were not about to ask too many questions to our very scary, screaming guest house owner. We arrived on the corner and the "road corner store" lady handed us a sign to hold up in the street that said, "Quay Non." Ok....? Many regular buses came and went with signs in Vietnamese...surely one for us? But, no, we were instructed to wait longer - those were not our buses. A minivan pulled up with no sign and started haggling with the store lady that seemed to be "taking care and watching out for us" between skinning some carcase on the concrete.  She told us this random bus was the deal and negotiated a price and urged us to hop in. In our minivan we were in the company of 10 other people, a driver and his sidekick and 3 cocks to keep things fun. 

About 30 minutes later we pulled off the road and are instructed to get out with our bags. Coconuts started filling the floor under all the seats and our backpacks that were placed neatly in the back were now thrown on the top of the van to make room for the hundreds of coconuts that would fill the entire trunk area, floor to roof. So, the coconuts, cocks, locals, and Dutch and American couples all continued north, hopefully to Quay Non. 

We finally arrive and spent another amazing day on motorbikes in search of a fishing village called Ly Non, 30 minutes outside the city. To our amazement this fishing villages sat along a private, white sand beach. Heaven has found us once again. As we play in the water and sand, a group of boys approach the beach with a look of suspicion in their eye. Not to be sure, but we were sure they were after our bags....13 years old, good looking, and clever; they surrounded us. Rather making a scene, we snap some shots of them and told them we were leaving and headed down the beach a bit further to resume our private beach exploration. 

After a great day, we cruised back to catch our night train to Hoi An. The tickets for the regular train were all sold out, so we happily opted for the local train....hahahahaha. Pretty funny, us backpackers. 

Armed with cards, whisky, peanut and sesame snacks we were shocked to board our train at midnight and see where we would be spending the next 6 hours. All open rickety windows, hard wooden benches for seats, moms and babies lying on the floor, chickens in cages every few seats, and every bench filled with Vietnamese curled up and sleeping. We found our seats and the whisky and attempted a few games of Crazy 8's before we could not yell to one another any more. The train slap and slid on, over, and around its rails catching the wind and whipping it into the train and screeching in our ears. Needless to say, sleep didn't happen. But, we were greeted by the morning sun...then moved to another bus for 30 minutes, to finally find ourselves in the luxurious Hoi An. Whew. 

Nha Trang by Motorbike

The not so popular, and bar galore city of Nha Trang surprisingly became a great solo trip and an adventurous motorbike adventure. Nha Trang is the pulse of the young backpackers lure lined with happy hours, ladies nights, punch bowl discounts, and plenty of drunken company. I made my way through the main street only for a minute before meeting what would soon be my new pals for the next two days. Alya, Paul, and Stew. We made our way through the unexciting town and quickly decided to grab a beer to waste the rest of our afternoon, and then, into the night. I was with professionals. Booze bargaining professionals that is....all night I followed my friends chasing after the punch bowls. Let me be clear, the red bull, vodka. whisky, gin, coke mix stirred in a large bowl served with 4 straws. Now, don't get me wrong, I came and drank many of these punch bowls in college...but it has been awhile....feeling good we bar hopped the night away. At some point, deciding we would all rent motorbikes and seek out a waterfall 40 kilometers away the next day; yeah right! 

The morning came too quickly, and I was out of Excedrin, but I kept my promise and met the wild ones for an early lunch expecting a sure rain check. Oh no, within an hour we each hoped on motorbikes and made our way through the city streets, into the outskirts, along desolate coastal roads, onto a busy highway, and into hidden villages pushed far back from any paved road. We had to stop for directions dozens of times, which also meant we were invited to sit for tea dozens of times...so we did...and the sun kept shinning and the journey to the unknown, and non-existent waterfalls just kept getting better. We cruised through cows, pigs, rice fields, thick mud and grass, every other mushy and dirty collection on these off roads. When finally, an English speaker appeared and pointed us to the waterfalls. 

The waterfalls were only the excuse to ride....but, they were well worth it. We headed back into Nha Trang with a belly full of sea food from a local hot pot restaurant, a few beers, sun burnt, and ready to crash from the events of the last 24 hours. The journey, full and fun spirit of my friends, and the feeling of controlling a motorbike on my own made for another experience that I will never forget. 

Mui Ne, Vietnam

My ideal beach scene - with the right mix of people, vibes, food, and comfort. We come for the sunshine - while many come for the wind. A windy, travelers, backpackers, kite surfers beach is what this is. And, how can that be bad? 

On many days, the kite surfer instructors and anxious students, just "wait for the wind." Many resorts for the luxurious spenders, and good deals for the budget traveler. We found a spot for $12 a night right on the beach. And, then, decided we would stay here a few days.

Mui Ne is where you fall into your book, under the sun, and forget where you are.


Fruit is sold on the beach, dogs roam the sand, kite surfers entertain the senses, and the ocean chills the bones. Life is good here. 


The days, easily, became a week, and I decided to head down to Nha Trang (next city north) and give Clay a day or two more to kite surf. 

Welcome to Nam' - 2 weeks in Saigon

Vietnam is here.

Sadly, my camera was stolen in Saigon the night before we left, so I lost all my pictures...So I'll do my best with the words... 


(In one of the many coffee shops, on one of the many streets, trying to summarize my first impressions)


Saigon makes me feel at home. She watches out for me, and us.
Fumes and motorbikes swarm her streets, but she stays clean, reliable, and livable all the same.


The pointed Vietnamese hats symbolize to me the softness of the people - while the motorbikes represent the speed and energy off the streets.


Entrepreneurship is every corner and every store - making a deal, a better deal that is - from the neighbor selling the same thing. "same, same, but different" they sing. In their store, "Better quality, better price."


The Vietnamese are witty, fun, serious when they need to be, and friendly to all. 


There is a lawless murmur in the air - provoking a sense of freedom and liberation. Maybe deeper than we really see - from the government and/or from the many countries that tried to take it away.


Through the lens, she looks a bit chaotic or mad, but she is calm and understood. 


Her people coexist harmoniously - respecting each other's role in the community. 


No hostility, look, or disrespect ever shown from the faces - or behind the hats into the deep brown eyes. 


They dance around each other gracefully with an unspoken kindness.


The high-end hotel manager and the restaurant owner all accept the nature and necessary peddling of the hawkers. Business will be business - with a kind hand in the deal.


The Vietnamese colors are bright with shades of silk, a whiteness of the present day - truths of their history soiled by deep reds.


Too much unforgettable blood has spilled, the political capitalism spill.


Overcome and rising above - Vietnam won, with the forever scars in the generations of children to come. 


Our history book, the American tale of truths - much different once you are here and see.


I am a proud American traveling. I am received by clapping and happiness when I share where I am from. Welcomed openly with good English they say, "I like America - a friend lives there - I want to go." No grudges, just smiles. 


Smiling cause they know their culture is strong with the mix of incense, jasmine, dignity, Buddhism, prosperity, honesty, sweat, citrus, soul.


A world of working women, and very proud men. Early to rise, early to nap. Will pull you off the streets for a sale, but will be snoozing when you walk in.


A well balanced social class, going after the tourist dong (Vietnam's currency).


Her specialties: silk, rice, quilts, lacra (sp?), chicory drip coffee, tailor clothes, zippos from wartimes, eggshells used as a medium of design for bowls, plates, noodles. 


Amazing and effectively, one family, one house - a home at night, but a tour office, guest house, internet cafe, restaurant, laundry service, and cafe by day. All in one.  


If you need or want something they do not have, wait only a minute, and it will appear. Crazy resourceful. Of course, at the right price. 


Saigon (as the rest of Vietnam I am sure) is changing so fast. In 2 weeks, we watched her try on and sport new outfits to better suit her surroundings. Hotels, storefront, tour offices - all constructed and finished in the blink of an eye. 


i can only imagine what she was just a few years ago, just after her wars. And, at this pace, what she will become in only a few more. Certainly, never the same.


I give thanks to be walking her streets now - feeling her today.

BANGKOK....and some island time

Thailand (Part 1): Bangkok, and some island time at Ko Jum
We will be returning to Thailand in the near future but stopped in on our way up the coast for some white sands and then to the gateway into Thailand and  much of southeast Asia: Bangkok.(All pics from the island trip and Bangkok were on my camera that was stolen in Saigon)


Thus far, Bangkok has only received a bad repoir from fellow travels and I was curious to see why.... We did not venture far but the infamous CoSon Road, but within the 5 block radius I was entertained by the shopping, vendors, rough backpackers betting on a little party and plans to escape to the beaches. Supposely beyond the tourist refuge lies erotic shows, prostitution, a community of drug dealers, crime, and waste. We will be returning later and maybe I'll get a more defined taste of this notorious Bangkok. 


My picture moment thus far is in the airport at our gate to Saigon. In a matter of 6 rows at the gate were a group of monks wrapped in orange, papapya, and banana colored robes - all set with their new Cannon cameras, cell phones, and i phones at the hip. A principle of Buddism: be aware of distractions. :) Just behind the holy toga men were 5 transvestites (or lady-boys if you will) all in black, accented with red lips and shoes, well manicured for the destination ahead and in light conversation with one another. Quite the sight these two groups. To fill in the rest: the posh, the peasant, and the backpackers. Off to Saigon we go!